Land Rover HT For Sale

Forum Gallery For Sale Reviews LZ - Live Land Rover Zone > Land Rover Talk > Land Rover Freelander Help! Problems after plug/dizzy/rotor/HT lead replacement. User Name Remember Me? Password Donate! Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Land Rover Freelander Freelander fans, let's hear you. Community Links Social Groups Pictures & Albums Members List Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Tag Search Advanced Search Google™ Search Go to Page... Welcome to Land Rover Zone! You are currently viewing our site as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, photos and use our for sale section. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today ! Thread Tools # 1 8th-December-2010, 20:29 Emeye Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Manchester, UK Posts: 54 Help! Problems after plug/dizzy/rotor/HT lead replacement. In the freezing weather my T reg, 1.8 Freelander failed to start. I have replaced the Plugs, HT leads, Rotor arm and distributor cap and my Freelander now starts on the button, but idle is now very lumpy, the Amber TC and HDC warning lights are on and the throttle response is very sluggish. Not sure what the problem is now. Does something need to be reset? Help! __________________ Cheapo '99 1.8 Freelander 5dr with a to-do list. Big stereo first, then I can worry about the mechanics and the electrics Hey Guest! Not Registered? Join today! Registration allows you to post on our forums, host photos in our gallery and place adverts in our classifieds . # 2 8th-December-2010, 23:28 ianda12 Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Gravesend, Kent Posts: 637 Re: Help! Problems after plug/dizzy/rotor/HT lead replacement. H.T. leads on in correct order ? # 3 8th-December-2010, 23:56 BIGGAMEHUNTER Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 45 Re: Help! Problems after plug/dizzy/rotor/HT lead replacement. the plug ports fill with water/oil on the k sereies engines causing the spark to jump before reaching the electrode on the end of the plug ..if the leads not realy realy pushed on the plug hard ....take the top cover strip off go to the petrol garage and get the airline and blow it down all your plug sockets to get the water out disconect the battery leave for 5-10 mins and try it then.........and obviously check your leads are on correctly __________________ A BIG ENOUGH HAMMER AND YOU CAN fix it !!!!!!! Last edited by BIGGAMEHUNTER; Yesterday at 19:54 . # 4 Yesterday, 00:20 Emeye Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Manchester, UK Posts: 54 Re: Help! Problems after plug/dizzy/rotor/HT lead replacement. Well I'm pretty sure the leads are on in the correct order as they are all different lengths, but I will check them tomos - if that isn't the problem I'm going to try unplugging leads as it idles to see if the problem gets worse or stays. Then I'll try blowing out the plug sockets. Interestingly there was oil in the plug sockets when I took the leads out as if someone previously had spilt oil and it had found its way down the sockets. __________________ Cheapo '99 1.8 Freelander 5dr with a to-do list. Big stereo first, then I can worry about the mechanics and the electrics # 5 Yesterday, 19:15 TD John Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 178 Re: Help! Problems after plug/dizzy/rotor/HT lead replacement. The oil won't help with the spark distribution to the plugs. Rather than a spill, it could be coming from the cam cover to head joint. This joint is about 1" down the hole all around each plug. Should be sealed with silicone when assembled but is a common failing on the K series. If it's not bad keep it cleaned out if it is bad then removal and resealing is needed. Clean them out and see if it improves, keep a close check for any new oil. « Towbar & Tyres - newbies Question | If the Freelander team made passenger jets.... » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Posting Rules You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On HTML code is Off Trackbacks are Off Pingbacks are Off Refbacks are Off Forum Rules All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:12 . Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0 Contact Us - Land Rover Forum - Accrington - PLC Forum - Archive - Privacy Statement - Top Page generated in 0.19488 seconds with 10 queries || Forum Gallery For Sale Reviews LZ - Live Land Rover Zone User Name Remember Me? Password Donate! Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Community Links Social Groups Pictures & Albums Members List Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Tag Search Advanced Search Google™ Search Go to Page... Welcome to Land Rover Zone! You are currently viewing our site as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, photos and use our for sale section. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today ! Home · Search · Member List · Register Home » Land Rovers » Land Rover Accessories « Previous Ad Bosch HT leads Contact Seller Views Date Posted 74 Sun November 21, 2010 Asking Price Condition Best Offer Excellent Description: Brand new Bosch HT leads( same ones from Halfords) sent me a pm for prices Keywords: HT DIZZY LEAD For Sale By V8Jay Senior Member Posts: 289 Registered: September 2010 Location: Stockton on tees Ads from this Seller · > >> Author V8Jay Senior Member Registered: September 2010 Location: Stockton on tees Posts: 289 Comment Date: Sun November 21, 2010 Just a quick price for v8 ones that fit my 97 discovery are 26.50 posted ------------------------------ 97 V8i in Green Discounted bosch HT leads for landrovers, sent a pm for details Quote: Originally Posted by adymanchester v8jay your wonderfull !!! Quote: Originally Posted by storm99 I'm having a very heavy period, what rag should i buy that absorbs my flow but costs bugger all? I hate you. Statistics Users 55,124 Active Ads 4,290 Comments 2,315 Views 3,828,430 Items Sold 1,400 Value of items sold £2,393,226 « December 2010 Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Random Ads - Land Rover Accessories Bunch of disco bits, winch bumper Discoandy 2.25 Petrol engine mikebeetle Breaking 2 Rangies & Disco all V8 EFIs 3.5 and 3.9 FITZ4x4 Series 3 front n/s wing landrover16 · more · Most Viewed ARMREST for FREELAND... 13,566 Range Rover Alloys &... 10,370 Freelander dog Guard... 8,792 750R16 Michelin XZLs... 8,444 suzuki sj 413 samura... 8,347 Powered by: PhotoPost Classifieds PHP vB3 Enhanced Copyright 2006 All Enthusiast, Inc. All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:12 . Contact Us - Land Rover Forum - Accrington - PLC Forum - Archive - Privacy Statement - Top || Forum Gallery For Sale Reviews LZ - Live Land Rover Zone User Name Remember Me? Password Donate! Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Community Links Social Groups Pictures & Albums Members List Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Tag Search Advanced Search Google™ Search Go to Page... Welcome to Land Rover Zone! You are currently viewing our site as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, photos and use our for sale section. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today ! Home · Search · Member List · Register Home » Land Rovers » Land Rover's For Sale Awesome 110 HT with silver sankey tool trailer Contact Seller Views Date Posted 3003 Fri October 23, 2009 Asking Price Condition £9,950.00 Excellent supersize Description: EBAY classified no. 260484929313 for more pictures AWESOME 110 hard top in Metallic silver sold with silver Sankey 1 tonne tool trailer and NATO hitch - Ideal for camping or expedition I am the second owner from new and the vehicle has a full service history. Recent MOT and full service. To include registration S9 ECO Right now for the specification : Silver / Techno trim TD5 - Autologic remap EGR removed (TD5 Alive) Cat bypass pipe (s/s TD5 Alive - the good one !) Motorsport Intercooler ( TD5 Alive) GKN overdrive FSH Boost alloys BFG AT's Centre cubby box Blaupunkt DAB radio/cd with additional bluetooth kit and the best roof mounted aerial 2 X new folding high back seats (Exmoor trim denim ) with lap belts ARB full length roof rack Hella light to rear Eaziawn awning Bar with Hella spot lights (Hella wiring loom) Rear ladder Mantec steering guard DeCarbon shocks NAS rear bumper/step Tow gear (Dixon Bate ball and pin) Fully ply lined from new Mobile Storage solutions drawer Steel 30mm wheel spacers Paddock black 'deluxe' wing protectors Has been waxoyled every year Will be valeted before collection The original cat pipe and EGR will come with the vehicle. Now to include a Sankey 1 tonne tool trailer (Also painted silver with 4 compartments and to hinged doors. New electrics, lights and jockey wheel. similar to this picture, without the top box or fuel holder, but in much better nick - ideal for overland or camping.( http://www.milweb.net/classifieds/classpics/48755.jpg ) NOTE : VAT will be added at the prevailing rate (currently 15%) to the price - a VAT invoice will be issued. Vehicle only released once funds have cleared. £9950.00 VAT at 15% = £11442.50 Keywords: 110 hardtop lwb sankey td5 silver history nato serviced For Sale By bigsmellydaddy Junior Member Posts: 2 Registered: January 2008 Ads from this Seller · Statistics Users 55,124 Active Ads 4,290 Comments 2,315 Views 3,828,432 Items Sold 1,400 Value of items sold £2,393,226 « December 2010 Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Random Ads - Land Rover's For Sale 1999 t reg landrover discovery 2 xs td5 auto msstrt Landrover lightweight (air transportable). Ex RAF series 3, 1974, tomi Defender 90 200tdi Bigfrosty Range Rover Classic 4x4Kev 1971 Series 2a 109" 6cyl van yehright101 110 CSW Land rover 1989 lizzy110 · more · Most Viewed ARMREST for FREELAND... 13,566 Range Rover Alloys &... 10,370 Freelander dog Guard... 8,792 750R16 Michelin XZLs... 8,444 suzuki sj 413 samura... 8,347 Powered by: PhotoPost Classifieds PHP vB3 Enhanced Copyright 2006 All Enthusiast, Inc. All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:12 . Contact Us - Land Rover Forum - Accrington - PLC Forum - Archive - Privacy Statement - Top || Known Defender Problems Defenders and their predecessors 90/110 and 130 are the most associated with "Land Rovers". They are so widespread and used so hard there's almost no component that hasn't been broken by one or another bloke 'round the world. But, as an old saying goes "A lot of shadows mean a lot of light" or so... I own an 90 myself so I think I may criticise them as well as anybody. Corrosion It's a problem caused by either water accumulating in places or by contact corrosion between steel and aluminium. Doors and capping sections often show this contact corrosion by bubbles raising from under the paint (photo below). and sorry, there's no immediate cure for this other than to replace the part and make sure the new one is treated immediately with some sort of prevention. This sort of corrosion can show up as early as on a 6 months old car or only after 10 years. Once it shows it can only be slowed by treating the part with liberal amounts of Waxoil or similar to keep water awy. This may help or may not. It depends on how much water is still trapped between the metals. The bulkhead around the front windscreen hinges is also a vulnerable area. Although repair sections are now available it's only a temporary solution and fitting a new one will be very expensive, both in material and in work. Contact corosion is also frequent on rear doors where you will see the amount of damage only when removing the trim. Extended damage has been reported from cars less than 10 months old. Above: Oxidation from contact with aluminium and steel on front doors. Left: Beginning oxidation at the doors lower leading edge. Driveline slack Clonks in the transmission, the famous "knock of death" is caused by wear between the gearbox tailshaft and the transfer case input gear. It's heard as a sharp, short knock when accelerating or decelarating from the area of the gearbox. You can also feel it. The wear comes from the lack of lubrication on the meshing gears. Recently kits have been available that feed oil to those places eliminating the problem- if the gears are still fine. The only cure for this is changing those 2 meshing gears BOTH. For this the transfer box has to be removed. prepare for a considerable bill. This does not mean it will break immediately when you notice this slack in the driveline. You can probably still drive thousends of miles. If you are used to drive them appropriately (without sudden shifts and clutch operations) you can probably still drive for years. It does not mend itself however. The wear will continue and get worse until it suddenly brings you to a standstill without too much warning signs. The gears usually start to make a lot more noise before immediate faillure. However before attempting this first make sure your propshafts are fine. To check them you have to lift one or more tires off the ground to remove tension. Also a common cause for a similar "clonk" are the A-frame and trailing arm bushings. Those locate the rear axle and do wear away. if in doubt replace them with Polybushes. The ball joint in the middle of the A-frame also wears and is very hard to replace so I leave this to a poor soul in a shop. Left: A-arm bushing. It's almost impossible to get at that nut or to push it out of its seat. Leaking power steering Leaks in the power steering box are quite common. Try to avoid turning at standstill. Most boxes are slightly covered with oil but drips are a sign for immediate action. First make sure the lines are fully tightened. If that's ok your box will probably need an overhall. Look at the fluid. If it contains small silvery or golden flakes it's a really bad sign. In that case prepare also for a new pump. There's an repair kit for the box containing new seals etc but it only works if the surfaces are still unworn. It's about a 50/50 chance but it only costs 1/10th of a exchange box so it's worth a try. You will need some professional puller to remove the drop arm as it sits on the box as if welded in place. I used a hydraulic press and it only gave up at 30 tons of pressure. The trick in mounting the new bottom seals without damaging is to cover the splines on the lower output shaft with some sort of tape and grease. Once you remount it you will know what place I mean. Timing belt faillure 200 and 300 TDi's use a rubber timing belt. This can and will break if you don't replace it in time. Usual intervals are 80.000 Km although I've seen some snap at less than 60.000. If the belt breaks with the engine running as they do usually you are most likely off for a very expensive repair if not a complete new engine. If you buy a car with an 200 or 300 TDi make sure the job has been done or do it immediately. 300 TDi's have a built-in problem so they eat up the timing belt way too soon. A correction kit is available to rectify this and if you own an 300 TDi make sure you have that kit fitted. Even as a Rover fan I think this should have been a factory recall if there ever was one. It's a shame to ruin an engine capable of doing 300.000-400.000 miles just for a 15 pound timing belt. Replacing the belt is not that much work but you will probably need a special puller for the lower crank pulley. Rubber belts wear not evenly (picture) and therefore tend to wear onto the gears. Not quite logical at first as the gears are solid metal. So the new timing belt will ride just on the higher edges of the gears and wants to move. So he rubs against the cover or the back, wearing down VERY quickly until it reaches the state the old belt had. So inspect the upper and lower gears very closely for any signs of wear. If in doubt replace them or your new belt will wear out in a couple of hondred miles. You must also replace your idler pulley that makes the tension on the belt in 90% of the cases. The handbook does not make this clear but look at your belt. The wear on the BACK side is only due to the idler pulley rubbing.. Left: a typically worn timing belt. This one probabbly had only a few weeks life left. What's frightening is that this had done only 27000 miles, half the life expectancy landrover gives. Right: The timing belt in it's housing. Red arrow shows idler pulley, white arrows point to gears you must inspect. Note the black rubber dust covering everything- that was once part of a belt Right: The belt replacement kit made by Zeus. Solid metal gears replace the rubber belt, decreasing also side load on all bearings. Disadvantages are a bit more noise outside the vehicle and the high price - around £600 + VAT V8 problems The V8's are good engines but helplessly outdated. They accept a lot of abuse but are very sensitive to oil change intervals. If you miss them or use cheap oil a black sludge will quickly build up. This starts to block oil passages so some components will no longer get enough lubrication. First to go are the hydraulic followers (lifters) and they wear immediately the camshaft. This is hard to detect at first but once the wear starts it can't be repaired. Once the polished surfaces are worn the process will go faster and faster. All you hear is a slight ticking noise as the followers won't pump up so giving a ticking. It can be seen when you remove the intake plane. There's a great power loss but as it comes very slowly you can only feel it when comparing to another Rover V8. Idle will not change much, it even may run smoother. And you must change the cam and the followers together as the hardened surfaces work on eachother and will not accept an used counterpart. Also the V8's are more sensitive to overheating. Look at the special page for this. Another design "fault" is the outer row of cylinder head bolts. If you torque them down as described in the repair manual they will exert enough leverage to slightly push up the middle side of the head. This is only measured in 1000th of an inch but if you push the throttle high pressures in the cylinders will push a very slight amount of burning gasses into the water/oil galeries. This makes for a very hot running engine if you push it but it behaves normal under standard situations. Also oil gets burned and turns into a sort of tarmac, covering the internal surfaces and blocking oil galleries Make sure you always have antifreeze in the coolant, even for short tests. Left: Worn followers (lifters). Anything except a very slight depolish of the surface is not acceptable left: The cam still looks good but... below: ...look at those lobes. The arrow indicates the edge where the follower rode on. A single damaged lobe like this makes a cam fit for the scrapbin. Failing clutch release arm This applies not for V8-engined Rovers as those have a different arm. All others have only a stamped metal sheet arm that pushes onto the release bearing. This wears out and leaves you without clutch. Sometimes you get warning signs as sticky or rubbing but usually it just breaks through and you're stranded. So if you have your clutch changed always change the release arm too or have it strenghtened by welding a thick washer to it. VM Turbo Diesels I've seen some fitted to the Defender range but if you accept any advice: Keep off. This engine is a can of worms. Tired Turbo Diesels The simple Turbo Diesel wasn't the best engine they ever made. Most blow oil into the air cleaner. They easily catch splits in the block, have pistons broken and, of course, timing belt faillures. The normally aspirated Diesels and the TDi's don't have these problems. Sticking transfer box levers Diff lock and High-Low lever may stick if used rarely. A good squirt of penetrating oil usually sorts out the problem. To prevent this use your transfer box from time to time. What do you have if for anyway? Water leaks Almost no Land Rover is watertight! A small intrusion may be acceptable as long it doesn't drip on your head. A common fault is water dripping from around the sun roof area or from over the doors. Most noticeably when cornering- you get a stream of icy water on places you don't need it. Most people think it comes from the sunroof. It may be, so put some silicon sealer around the rubber strip on the roof. But in most cases it comes from the front. If you look exactly over the windshield you will see that the roof is made of 2 halves clamped together. They join at the rain gutter over the windshield. After some time (faster if you often drive over bumpy roads) this joint will open just a bit, enough to suck water in. When driving you may stay dry as often the wind drives water away from the tiny cracks but on others it was the opposite. The water then creeps inside, accumulating on the inner roof liner. Here it sits and waits until you corner or brake. Then it sloshes around and finds the most unpleasant place to exit. Try putting a thin coat of clear silicone all over the front rain gutter above the window after thoroughly degreasing. If it does not help it can't hurt either. A similar effect happens on those who have air vents above the rear door. Also check around the front windscreen rubber. Rust may push it up and allow water to come in. Once behind the dash it can find an completely different place to exit Indicator and position lights They are a constant hassle on elder vehicles or those used in mud. They corrode between the bulb's metallic foot and the housing thus making it impossible to change the bulb. If it doesn't come out easily, don't insist as the glass will break before the rust let go so cutting your fingers. Get a new complete lamp and put the plastic "glass" aside for later use. If it still doesn't work it's almost always a bad ground. 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Get Insurance Quote £3495 10-Dec-2010 Essex Private 2006 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER VOGUE SE SUPERCHARGER For Sale Stunning Example Of The Ultimate 4x4. Range Rover Supercharger V8 Vogue SE. Top Spec With Every Extra Including Navigation, Logic 7 Hifi, Rear Entertainment Screens, Heated Multi Function Seats, Privacy ..... Get Insurance Quote £24495 09-Dec-2010 Yorkshire Trade Oak style barns for sale. For Sale (new) Oak building for sale in kit form or made to size. Kits start form £3950 + VAT for a two bay. Any size possiable. Call me with ideas and for quotes. Andrew We take time to make sure it's right! Kit ..... Get Insurance Quote £3950 09-Dec-2010 Norfolk Trade Landrover Series 3 LWB (109) Petrol For Sale (1979) 1979 Lanny, 109 LWB Station Wagon. Very Solid chassis, restored in past. Lots of new parts, Mot May 2011, Taxed. Drives through anything! Get Insurance Quote £1495 08-Dec-2010 Scotland Private 2007 RANGE ROVER VOGUE 3.6 V8 TURBO DIESEL For Sale RANGE ROVER VOGUE 3.6 V8 TURBO DIESEL 2007 56 registration finished in the stunning colour scheme of Atacana Sand metallic with aspen/ivory Oxford leather trim, mega, mega specification, double average ..... Get Insurance Quote £25950 08-Dec-2010 Durham Trade 1952 LAND ROVER SER 1 COMPLETE For Sale This is a complete Ser1 80" for sale, chassis and bulk head very good order the complete land rover is here and untouched, the engine in this ser 1 is all here and looks like a 2.25 for a ser2 a, we have ..... Get Insurance Quote £1999 08-Dec-2010 Norfolk Trade Expedition Prepared V8 LPG Discovery For Sale (1998) It started life as a 3.9 Discovery. It have been converted to an expedition vehicle using parts and knowledge from Nene Overland and Skorpion Racing. In terms of specification she has the following: 3.9 ..... Get Insurance Quote £4750 08-Dec-2010 Gloucestershire Private LAND ROVER DIESEL SERIES 11A DEFENDER For Sale (1966) HI I HAVE NOW OWNED THIS LANDY FOR TWO YEARS.MOVED TWICE SINCE.LAID UP A YEAR AGO THAT WAS WHEN IT AS LAST RAN.SORTING OUT THE FRONT INNER WINGS WILL BE WITH THE CAR. AS YOU CAN SEE THE BODY PANELS ..... Get Insurance Quote £1295 07-Dec-2010 Cambridgeshire Private 1994 (L) Land Rover TDi ES 7 Seat Manual For Sale Finished in Blue metallic with grey leather. 144k miles from new. Full Grey Leather, Alloy Wheels, Electric Windows, Twin Sunroofs, Air Conditioning. Trade Sale vehicle. Drives superb and has ..... Get Insurance Quote £1995 07-Dec-2010 Cambridgeshire Trade Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9 : One of the last.................. For Sale (1995) One of the very last made............an 'MA' chassis number, soft dash model. 3 Owners. 119,000 miles with a full and comprehensive history file. MOT is until February 2011. Road tax runs out ..... Get Insurance Quote £5450 07-Dec-2010 Wiltshire Trade LANDROVER MILITARY WOLF WINTERISED & WATER PROOF For Sale (1999) LANDROVER GENUINE WOLF 110 300TDi DEFENDER 1999 RM TUM XD HS HT Winterised / water proof, GS full spec inc full Webasto central heating system (engine,auto dash fan,rear radiators, battery box rad )Has ..... Get Insurance Quote £22000 07-Dec-2010 Derbyshire Trade RANGE ROVER 4.4 V8 HSE 4DR AUTO SATNAV/TV For Sale (2002) 02 Reg RANGE ROVER RANGE ROVER 4.4 V8 HSE 4DR AUTO SATNAV/TV Features: 71,000 milesAutomaticSILVERPetrolEstate4400 CC Full Description: Glossary of Terms 4 Doors, Automatic, Estate, Petrol, Metallic ..... Get Insurance Quote £12995 07-Dec-2010 Berkshire Trade Amazing series I For Sale (1975) Very nice first série from 1975, in original condition, This model born with the desirable factoty Webasto option's , finished in Lincoln green , this is the same car as Lady Diana, in left and ..... Get Insurance Quote £14500 06-Dec-2010 Belgium Private LANDROVER LR90 4C SW For Sale (1984) LANDROVER 90 COUNTY 1984 MILAGE 85,763 2286CC PETROL TAXED 12 MONTHS MOT 1 OWNER FROM NEW, EXCELLENT CONDITION CD PLAYER, SIDE STEPS, MANUAL 5 SPEED. THIS IS MY FATHER IN LAWS HE HAS OWNED THE ..... Get Insurance Quote £7995 06-Dec-2010 Staffordshire Private 80 SOLD (1952) This is a complete Ser1 80" for sael, chassis and bulk head very good order the complete land rover is here and untouched, the only thing is the engine ..... SOLD (via a Car and Classic Free Advert) nice Defender 110 200TDi hardtop+MOT, tax, good history For Sale (1994) motodrome are pleased to offer this 1994 Land Rover Defender 110 Hardtop 200TDi, finished in White . . Fitted with: power steering, roof rack, chequerplate to wingtops, bonnet, and rear panel, ..... Get Insurance Quote £3995 06-Dec-2010 Berkshire Trade 1994 RANGE ROVER 'CLASSIC' - BLACK For Sale FOR SALE - Short wheel base Range Rover 'Classic' - Black - 3.9 Litre - V8 - Petrol / LPG converted (70 ltr tank located under car - torpedo type) - Grey Leather interior with 'soft dash' - 166,000 miles ..... Get Insurance Quote £1750 06-Dec-2010 Essex Private Series 1 with Harvey Frost crane For Sale (1955) 1955 107 series 1 Rover straight six 3 litre engine starts on the button. This vehicle has had a complete restoration with body off. Recently fitted springs and shock absorbers all round. Wheels stove ..... Get Insurance Quote £5500 06-Dec-2010 Surrey Private LAND ROVER S3 H/TOP 45,000 MILES For Sale (1978) GOOD CHASSIS AND BULKHEAD, TIDY ORIGINAL. DRIVES WELL AND HAS A LONG MOT. 2.25 PETROL. Get Insurance Quote £3250 05-Dec-2010 Leicestershire Private Range Rover Sport TDV6SE For Sale (2006) RANGE ROVER Sport 2.7 TDV6 SE, 5 Doors, Automatic, Estate, Diesel, 2006 06 Reg, Metallic Silver, MOT-04-2011, 2 Owners. Finished In Silver, Level 3 Colour Coding Program, 22" Supersport Overfinch Alloys ..... 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